Here we are in Valladolid! A city very different from Guadalajara and Merida. In what? Because of its size to begin with, it is much smaller and it is really nice because we feel less the pressure of big cities. And this charming city is different in its authenticity. We finally feel in Mexico. By the colored streets, by the atmosphere.
In short, we feel good and hope you will also feel that if you go through our new favorite.
Airbnb - A studio in Valladolid
While doing my couchsurfing research for Valladolid, I found no host who was in the village itself. It bothered me a bit because it meant we were still dependent on public transport to get to the center of Valladolid. Later I looked at hotels that advertised high rates. It was out of the question! So, I looked on my Airbnb application and I found a charming studio for a very reasonable price. The downside was that it is located outside the center of the village, about 1.5km, but in 15 minutes walk there was!
Jonathan, an engineering student, kindly welcomed us. He came to pick us up at the bus station. He showed us where was the cenote Zaci and small local shops.
Jonathan and his dad are very considerate hosts, always at your disposal if needed and especially very good advice for your stay.
Although it was a studio, it was relatively large.
You have a kitchen, a bed, a private bathroom, an air conditioning. There were little touches everywhere. We had towels on our beds on arrival (which were changed after a week), soaps and shampoo in the bathroom.
The advantage I saw in this studio is the cuisine. We could make our own meals instead of going to the restaurant every day. See here another way to save a little more especially since the tours here are not given at all.
We rented this studio for 4 nights initially. Finally we extended another 5 nights because we felt really good in this little village. Following an unexpected size (again ...), we stayed 16 days.
The city center of Valladolid
I think you're getting used to ... the downtown tour! It is so obligatory a passage, on the one hand for the discovery of the historical monuments but it also makes it possible to take knowledge of the city, the streets, the shops of proximity in order to be able to remain serenely.
Iglesia de San Servacio
What is found in the city center? A cathedral!
I do not know about you, but I think it looks a lot like Mérida Cathedral. What do you think?
I was disappointed by the interior of Iglesia de San Servacio. I find that there is a strong contrast between the exterior and the interior of the monument. For those who likes sobriety you will be served.
Francisco Canton Rosado Park
With Ezekiel we had a little break in the Francisco Canton Rosado Park, on a chair for lovers in front of the fountain. Nothing better to enjoy the present moment, observe the people around us, street vendors offering crafts, delicacies, children who run after the pigeons and who drop their ice, parents who run after the children. There is animation!
Food Court
Right in front of the park, you can find something to eat in this place:
This is a Mexican food court! For my part, I had a mokaccino, a mocha with chocolate, at Café Art.
Clazada de los Frailes You can go for a walk in the Calzada de los Frailes (brothers' road) to discover beautiful architecture, many traders, restaurants. At the end of this street you can see the San Bernardino Convent of Siena.
During your advance, you can observe various embellishments throughout this street, sometimes they can be useful.
Although the Calzada de los Frailes is known in Valladolid, I find that other streets are just as beautiful, or even more colorful. Of course, there is more traffic, but it does not detract from their charm.
At the corner of a street, I could see a very different church, very different from the cathedral, but that has nothing to envy. I find it full of charm. This is the Santa Ana Church. His particuliarity? She is completely yellow. Unfortunately it was closed during our stay. Impossible to visit.
The local market
The market of the small town of Valladolid is indoors, under a completely yellow construction. It is not really in the center but rather near the cenote Zaci. You will find everything you want in fruits and vegetables, but also in spices and chocolate. There is also a part that is reserved for meat.
However, you have to go early because the market closes at 16H00.
Artesania de los Municipios
In the center of Valladolid, next to the food court and in front of Francisco Canton Park, there is a craft market called artesanis de los municipios. Just go through the front door and you're there. Everything is almost color, giving you the urge to venture there. But yellow is always the dominant color.
Here is a bit of history on this market that tells you the particularity of Valladolid in the world of crafts:
As the explanatory panel says, you will find sewing shops with the famous huipil, the traditional clothes of women (white dress with flowers at the shoulders and at the bottom of the dress), a store working leather including the huaraches (typical sandals) and many others. A moment for the pleasure of the eyes or that of your wallet if you decide to make some purchases.
Chichen Itza
Let's discover one of the wonders of the world! Chichen Itza, an ancient Mayan city belonging to UNESCO World Heritage since 1988.
We got up early to arrive at the opening of the site to have the least possible tourists on our photos. So, it is at 7:45 that we left in collective taxi, which was the same price as the bus ADO but which left much earlier and which went much faster!
We arrived in Chichen Itza where there are already quite a few people but it is very reasonable given the size of the place. Let's go for the visit and the wonder!
Pyramid of Kulkulcan or El Castillo
The Kulkulcan pyramid is a solar pyramid built by the Mayan itza in honor of the god Kulkulcan, which means in Maya, feathered serpent. Not long ago, Mexican archaeologists discovered that there was another pyramid inside it. Astonishing no?
El castillo has several peculiarities including having exactly 365 stairs on all four sides. It does not remind you of anything?
During our visits, we met several guides who clapped their hands in front of certain faces of the pyramid. This caused an echo but also distorted it. Apparently this would reproduce the song of the quetzal, a small bird that we meet in Mexico.
The last characteristic of the Castillo occurs during the equinoxes. Its good astronomical alignment means that there is a shadow play on the north face where a snake descending the stairs is represented by the shadow of the sun.
The skulls platform
It is aptly named because there is nothing but a platform. This was used to expose the skulls of enemies and prisoners who were sacrificed. The skulls were stacked vertically, one on top of the other.
The exposure of the skulls had two functions:
- it was a kind of memorial especially during the wars.
- to avoid possible attacks by frightening the possible enemies.
In my opinion, it was better to get along with the Maya at the time.
Here is the representation of the Skulls Platform during the Mayan period:
Temple of Warriors
This temple owes its name to the warlike representations on each of the columns that you can see in the photo.
In the photo below, the representation of the temple of the warriors before any collapse:
The Temple of Large Tables
This temple is located just to the left of the temple of the warriors.
It was a small pyramid, and it owes its name to the great altars that were located in the upper building. Here is what the Temple des Grandes Tables looked like:
The big pitch of the ball game
It is one of the best preserved monuments in the city after all this time.
To this day the rules of this game are not very precise. We only know that there were two teams competing against each other and the goal was to recover and return the ball to the opposing side without dropping it on its own side. The players could use the thighs, buttocks, hips and knees but prohibition to touch the ball with the feet and hands. Certainly because the ball, which was rubber, could weigh up to 3kg. Imagine the condition of the hands and feet if they received a ball of this weight.
Still according to the hypothetical rules of the game of ball, the game stopped when the score decided before the game was reached or when one of the players managed to pass the ball in the ring of the opposite camp. It really had to be a feat because when you look at the height of the rings, you have to be very talented or very lucky!
The cenotes
There are exactly two cenotes to discover in Chichen Itza but the most impressive and most accessible is the Sagrado cenote, which served to honor the god of rain.
Chichen Itza is a must in Mexico, especially if you are in the vicinity of Valladolid or Merida. It took us about 2 hours to tour the site, maybe more if you decide to take a guide.
Discovering Cenotes
Valladolid is well known for the cenotes that are located in its surroundings but also in its center.
Cenote Zaci
The cenote Zaci is located in the center of Valladolid, in the city. Unbelievable! Of course, there are people because everyone goes there to bathe, whether tourists but also Mexicans. Anyway, it does not detract from the beauty of the site which is very big. There is room for everyone!
Cenote Samula
It was around 12 o'clock that we arrived at the site of Samule and X-Keken cenotes, both of which are in the same place. I strongly recommend going between noon and 2 pm because you will have more light in the cenotes.
Indeed, Samula and X-Keken are young cenotes so they are closed. They do not give on the outside as is the case of the Zaci cenote (seen above). As a result, there are just one or two small openings that let in the sun and I guarantee you that makes all the difference.
We started with the Samula cenote and here is what we can see at first:
We finally arrive at the entrance to the cenote where a lady asks us the number of our bracelet. Ah yes! I forgot. When you arrive at the general entrance to the site, you have the choice between choosing to visit a single cenote or both. So, depending on your choice, they put a bracelet around your wrist with a number. At the entrance of each cenote, a person asks you the number corresponding to your bracelet.
Once this is settled, we begin our descent towards Samula and we already feel the temperature difference between the outside and the inside of the cave.
And here is the discovery!
Unfortunately my camera did not capture the reality of places. It's really pretty, the water is turquoise in places and blue sunken to others, it all depends on the depth.
We can see the first well of light, the one next to the pile of pebbles. And the second is not visible yet because the sun has not yet reached!
In order to see correctly the rest of the time in the cenote, lights are of course installed.
Regarding the temperature of the water ... how to say ... do not think! Get wet!
I was captivated by the rock formation of the cenote. There are stalatites on the heights of the cave. There are even birds that have taken up residence the small crevices that there are in the walls.
In the cenote there are fish. I even had a free pedicure! You have very small fish that come to make you a little beauty of your feet. Ticklers abstain!
Cenote X-Keken
Just like for the cenot Samula, we show our bracelet number before being able to enter the cenote X-Keken.
It's gone for the descent!
Here is the show!
Only at this first sight, I am already conquered by the beauty of the Cenote X-Keken.
I was stunned by the rocky structure of the cenote. Did you see the size of the stalactites? Simply impressive!
We were lucky to have the sun going through the single skylight. He had to go away once and tell you that we saw the difference in the brightness of the cavern.
I urge you to go to these two cenotes if you are passing through Valladolid. There are plenty of other cenotes around, the locals told me about Tezomon. Unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to go there.
I loved making these discoveries. But do not be surprised. Everything is done so that you spend a maximum on the site. This goes from the guide to show you and tell you the story of the cenotes, the many traders and photographers.
The chocolate museum or Choco-Story
The Chocolate Museum or Choco-story is located right next to Francisco Canton Park, in 40 Street.
I push the door and I am immediately overwhelmed by the coolness that resides in the museum. A receptionist greets me by explaining that the Choco-Story is divided into two parts:
- Shop section
- a museum section that traces the history of chocolate from Mayan times to today
So you have the choice between just buying chocolate or discover all its evolution over time.
Personally, I came with the intention to know more about chocolate.
I then start the visit, and to my surprise I am alone! Good! The visit is totally interactive. You go from room to room with a theme and an advance in time and thus a breakthrough in the history of chocolate.
You just have to press the button of your tongue, listen and watch the scenes set up. You will learn that cocoa is not just a drink but also used in medicine. And yes!
In addition to staging, you have an exhibition of the different materials used for the consumption of chocolate. This goes from the simple bowl called jicara, first receptacle of cocoa dating from the Mayan period, to porcelain service of high society.
Jicara is a fruit that has been cut in half, emptied of its pulp and dried to form two cups. The first cups for chocolate!
Did you know that there were cups specifically for men with a mustache? I assure you! Moreover it is called simply "mustache cup", it allowed his gentlemen not to dirty their mustache.
I also learned that the cocoa bean had served as currency for a period.
I decided not to put all the pictures I took of the museum so that you have some surprises during your own visit.
Of course, I had a chocolate tasting, including a 72% dark chocolate with cinnamon and chilli. A delight!
Local food
I am a great gourmet, I must taste every specialty of each country or region.
In Mexico, you'll find in any area the famous guacamole and corn tortillas! But then, each region with its small specialty, like torta ahogada and tejuino for Jalisco.
What will we discover in Yucatan?
La Selva
I asked my host where it was possible to eat typical dishes of the region. He then told me the restaurant La Selva where the atmosphere is friendly and where the food is very good. He strongly advised me to taste the panuchos that are typical of Yucantan.
After 2.2 km on foot, here we come to La Selva. We did not really know what to choose in addition to the panuchos so we took all the regional antojitos to taste everything!
In this plate you will find:
- los panuchos: tortilla stuffed with beans, lettuce, meat, onion, tomato and jalapeno pepper
- salbutes: fried tortilla, lettuce, meat, onion, tomato and jalapeno pepper
- chalupas: fried tortilla paste with mashed potato, meat, onion, tomato sauce and jalapeno pepper
- sopes: fried tortilla paste, meat, romaine lettuce, tomato sauce, cream, cheese, and jalapeno pepper
- tostadas: cooked tortilla with beans (bean sauce), meat, romaine lettuce, tomato sauce, cream, cheese and jalapeno pepper
- tacos: corn tortilla, lettuce, meat, onion, tomato and jalapeno pepper
- empanadas: meat or cheese (according to your convenience), tomato sauce and onion
- tortas: local bread, mayonnaise, lettuce, meat, onion, tomato and jalapeno pepper.
Unfortunately I could not taste everything because my stomach was already full at half antojitos but Ezekiel was happy to finish everything.
If you are visiting Valladolid, I recommend with closed eyes this restaurant where you will find the specialties of Mexico and the region at low prices. You will easily find the address on the net.
The tamales
Among other Mexican specialties you have tamales, they would exist for more than 5000 years! They can be either sweet or salty. Tamales are prepared from corn flour dough stuffed with either meat or fruit. The whole is then wrapped in leaves of corn plants (or banana) and steamed. There are hundreds of different variants.
The fruits
I wanted to show you the appearance of fruits we meet in Mexico such as Mexican avocados that do not have the same size or the same appearance as the avocados that are imported to France. The local avocados are much bigger and the skin is much smoother.
Other discoveries are the tiny green tomatoes, called tomatillos. We tasted them in salad. Very bad idea! They are so acidic! However, Mexicans eat them raw or cooked, but they mostly use them to make their famous green sauce.
Hot chocolate
After my visit to the chocolate museum, I was a bit frustrated that I did not have a tasting of the famous cocoa drink. So, I went straight to Cafe Arte. I had been there before to taste a mokaccino. This time, I had a nice hot chocolate!
This was the big surprise from the first sip. I was expecting a basic chocolate but not at all. In Mexico, spices are added to chocolate. I recognized the cinnamon but it seems to me that there was something else. It's really surprising when you do not expect it at all. It did not bother me, on the contrary, I found it very good!
And sport in all this ?!
As in every city, Ezekiel must find a basketball court to practice his favorite sport. In Mexico, it is very surprising, it is mostly people of a certain age that we find on the ground!
Small contingencies
As I said in my article about Los Angeles, trips are made of unforeseen, whether they are good or not ...
This time, it's a broken hand that has been the focus of our attention for a few days. We went to the emergency room of the hospital but the doctor who cares for the hands were absent. We had to wait until the next day. Finally, Ezekiel decided to heal himself. After all, a fracture is immobilization.
I still contacted Chapka Insurance to ask them what to do if we were to go back to see a doctor.
For once, we have lengthened our stay in Valladolid and wait for some time to resume visits.
Et maintenant...
Cost of the stay in Valladolid: 16 days - Mérida - Valladolid bus tickets: 13,81 euros for 2 - uber transport to Mérida terminal: 3.89 euros - public transport and taxis: 20 euros - Accommodation: 158.69 euros - Meals, shopping and treats: 111 euros for 2 people - El Selva Restaurant: 10 euros for 2 people - Barber and pharmacy: 3 euros - Entrance Cenote Zaci: 2.77 euros for 2 - Chichen Itza entrance: 45 euros for 2 - Entrance to the Chocolate Museum (Choco-Story): 6,55 euros for 1 person - Entrance to Cenote Samula and X-Keken: € 11.50 for 2 people A total of 386,21 euros
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